How to Install an Exterior Door: 7 Easy Steps

Have you ever attempted to install an exterior door, only to feel overwhelmed by the process? Don’t worry, you’re not alone. Many homeowners face this challenge. The good news is installing an exterior door can be straightforward. Let’s explore how you can hang your new door with ease, ensuring it’s secure and stylish.

Learning how to install an exterior door saves money, boosts comfort, and improves security. This step-by-step guide covers measuring, prep, hanging an exterior door, and finishing for a weather-tight fit.

Tools and materials for exterior door install

Essential tools

Have your tools ready before you start to keep install time short and accuracy high.

• Tape measure and framing square
• 4- or 6-foot level
• Utility knife and pry bar
• Drill/driver with bits, impact bit, and countersink
• Hammer and nail set
• Caulk gun and exterior-grade sealant
• Composite or wood shims
• Low-expansion window/door spray foam or fiberglass
• Chisel, oscillating tool, or handsaw
• Safety glasses, cut-resistant gloves, hearing protection

Key materials

Choose durable, exterior-rated parts so the door operates smoothly for years.

• New exterior door (pre-hung for easiest install, or slab for advanced work)
• Hinges (exterior grade) and 3-inch galvanized or stainless screws
• Lockset and deadbolt
• Flashing tape, sill pan (or formed metal/composite pan)
• Weatherstripping and door sweep
• Interior and exterior trim (brickmould/casing)
• Paint or finish and exterior caulk

Manufacturer guidance

Follow the door maker’s instructions for fastener locations, foam type, and threshold setting to prevent leaks and callbacks; you can also simplify framing replacement with an exterior door frame kit for damaged jambs. For a reference overview on hanging an exterior door, see this practical guide from Oknoplast: Step-by-step guide to exterior door installation [link].

Measure and prep the doorway

Check exterior door dimensions

Confirm the door size against the rough opening so the unit fits with shim space on all sides; standard single doors are often 36" × 80", while custom sizes vary. For typical sizes and rough-opening targets, see the table below and review this pro install article from Fine Homebuilding: Installing Prehung Exterior Doors [link]; if you’re replacing a common size, browse a ready-to-ship 32 x 80 exterior door option.

Nominal door size	Typical rough opening (W × H)	Notes
30" × 80"	32" × 82"	Small entries; check egress rules
32" × 80"	34" × 82"	Common replacement size
36" × 80"	38" × 82"	Most popular; better accessibility
36" × 96"	38" × 98"	Tall doors; verify header capacity
Double 60"–72" × 80"	62"–74" × 82"	Check center mullion and floor level

Inspect rough opening

Remove old trim, check for rot at the sill and studs, and replace any soft or split wood so screws bite solid framing.

Level, plumb, square

Place a long level on the sub-sill, check both jamb studs for plumb, and verify diagonals match so the opening is truly square.

Adjust opening as needed

Plane or chisel high spots, add a composite sill shim if the floor pitches, or sister studs to get a flat, rigid surface for the new frame.

7 easy steps: how to install an exterior door 2025

Watch the quick demo below, then follow the steps to get a tight fit without guesswork; for more photos and tips, see Boss Exteriors: Entry Door Installation [link]. This approach works for single panels, an exterior double door, and even an exterior dutch door with minor tweaks for hardware and alignment checks.

Remove the old door

Back out hinge pins or unscrew hinges, lift the slab, and pull interior/exterior trim carefully to protect the wall finish.

Prepare the frame

Scrape old caulk, repair rotten spots, add a sill pan or flashing tape, and dry-fit the new unit to confirm clearances.

Apply weatherproof caulk

Run two beads of high-quality exterior sealant where the threshold meets the sub-sill and at the side-jamb flashing laps to block water paths.

Insert and shim the door

Set the door from the exterior, push the hinge side tight to the studs, and place shims snugly at each hinge and latch points for an even reveal around the slab.

Secure frame with 3-inch screws

Pre-drill through the jamb at shim locations and drive 3-inch galvanized screws into studs; replace one short hinge screw per hinge with a long screw into the framing.

Insulate without overstuffing

Use low-expansion foam sparingly between jamb and studs or tuck fiberglass loosely so pressure doesn’t bow the frame and create sticking.

Install trim, hardware, test

Caulk exterior joints, nail on trim, install the lockset and deadbolt, then swing the door several times to verify smooth latch engagement and weatherseal contact.

These picks help with measurements, sealing, and hardware fit.

Special considerations by door type

Exterior double door

Set the active door first for perfect reveals, then bring the passive door into alignment so the meeting edges close flush and the astragal seals tight.

Double front door

Check header integrity and floor level across the full span; even a 1/4-inch slope can throw off bolt throws and sweep contact on grand entries.

Exterior dutch door

Confirm the split-door interlock engages cleanly, and keep the middle rail straight with careful shimming so top and bottom halves stay co-planar.

Weatherstripping and insulation

Use quality bulb seals, adjust the sill cap for even compression, and fill frame gaps with low-expansion foam to limit drafts and moisture; see this overview from GVD Renovations: Exterior Door Installation Guide [link] for more sealing tips.

Pro tips for hanging an exterior door

Shim hinge and strike sides

Place paired shims at each hinge and at latch points to keep the reveal even and the weatherstrip compressed but not crushed.

Pre-drill and fastener choice

Pre-drill jambs at shim stacks and drive corrosion-resistant 3-inch screws; use stainless in coastal areas for long-term hold.

Avoid head-jamb fasteners

Skip screws through the head jamb so the frame can float slightly as the house moves, which prevents binding at the top corner.

Reinforce hinges with long screws

Swap one short screw per hinge leaf for a 3-inch screw into the trimmer stud to resist kick-in and keep the slab aligned.

Troubleshooting door installation

Uneven gaps or sticking

Loosen screws on the tight side, adjust shims slightly, and re-tighten; check floor pitch and threshold setting if the latch side rubs.

Drafts or moisture entry

Look for missing caulk at the sill ends, gaps behind brickmould, or crushed/loose weatherstrip, then re-seal and refit so the door seats uniformly; for DIY pointers, see Rooster Windows & Doors: DIY Exterior Door [link].

Latch and strike alignment

Move the strike plate up or down slightly, deepen the mortise with a chisel if needed, and verify the deadbolt throws without drag.

Safety, codes, and longevity

Safety gear and PPE

Wear safety glasses, gloves, and hearing protection, and keep blades sharp so cuts are controlled and clean.

Check local building codes

Confirm egress width, tempered glass rules for sidelites, wind/impact ratings where required, and exterior stair landing clearance before ordering.

Maintenance checklist

Plan quick seasonal checks to keep seals tight and hardware smooth.

1. Clean and re-lube hinges and locks twice a year
2. Inspect and replace worn weatherstripping
3. Re-caulk exterior trim joints that crack
4. Adjust strike plates if latch drags
5. Touch up paint/finish on edges and sill

Benefits of proper installation

A tight install improves security, cuts drafts and energy costs, and boosts curb appeal, which supports resale value.

DIY vs. pro, FAQs, resources

DIY vs. professional install

Confident DIYers with basic carpentry skills can replace a single pre-hung unit; hire a pro for an exterior double door, structural issues, or finishes that must look flawless.

How long does installation take?

Plan 2–4 hours for a standard door after prep; double front door and custom sizes may run half a day or more based on site conditions.

Do I need a permit?

Many municipalities allow like-for-like replacements without a permit, but new openings, bigger sizes, or structural changes can trigger permits; call your local office first.

Choosing exterior door dimensions

Measure the rough opening width, height, and wall thickness, then pick the closest nominal size with room for shims and insulation.

Most energy‑efficient door types

Modern fiberglass and insulated steel units offer strong thermal performance; compare build quality and cores here: fiberglass vs steel door, then pick the style that fits your climate and budget.

For more DIY help, browse our project articles on the blog, and consider these two helpful handbooks.

FAQs